Fun at Berhampur Thakurnai Yatra

Besha in Thakurani Yatra

Brahmapuris (the people of Brahmapur, mis-spelt as ‘Berhampur’ in government records) are emotionally linked with Thakurani Yatra celebrated over past 240 years. The post-harvest carnival does not limit to be merely a religious event, but creates a month long occasion for marry-making.

Traditionally most of the indigenous families of the city invite their married daughters and close relatives to visit the Yatra. While some visitors stay for short time, others spend long summer holiday with family and friends. Usually once a married daughter reaches her parental house during the Yatra period, she has to stay till the end of the Yatra. She is parted with presents either by her parents or in their absence, by the brothers leading as the head of the family.

Berhampur had a population of 25,729 as per 1901 census records which has grown to 2,10,585 during 1991 and 3,55,823 during 2011. Most of the families living in the city at present have migrated during the post-independence period. Thus we experience a mixed attitude of the city dwellers towards Thakurani Yatra. While the indigenous families involve themselves in rituals of the Yatra, the migrant families who were once visitors to the Yatra, participate on basis their personal preference.

Bada Thakurani (Goddess) is the reigning deity of Berhampur. Her visit out of the temple to the people is an occasion for celebration. People indulge in marrymaking with family and friends throughout the month long Yatra. In my opinion that is the focal point in Berhampur Thakurani Yatra.

The Yatra is administered with simple rituals and encourage creativity in Besha, Ratha, Kalakunja management. Beshas are the funniest part of the Yatra. Starting from animals to pages of mythology to social characters, one can imagine anything to attire himself and move around friends. A circus troup, a dance sequence from the Hindi film ‘Chandralekha’ which was a hit during 50’s or even a funeral processions are included as Beshas. You can opt for a ‘Blogger Besha’ – move with a tablet or notebook showing friends your blog.

Decentralisation in management of the Yatra can be considered as a case study for business schools. Though Desi Behera and Dera community organise the Yatra, they do not control administration of any Besha, Ratha or Kalakunja. The priests of Bada Thakurani have also a little role to play except certain religious rituals. Volunteerism is the key word.

Involvement of women in the rituals of Yatra proves its gender sensitivity. The procession of Goddess on daily basis and on the last date attracts a large number of women who worship Bada Thakurani for welfare of their families.

Berhampur Thakurani Yatra is an unique experience for indigenous Brahmapuri families. Just like a Brahmapuri may not be able to understand the Bali Yatra of Cuttack or Sahi Jata of Puri, it is difficult for others to understand the fun at Berhampur Thakurani Yatra. 

PHOTOGRAPH BY: Srinivas